Oita City

Alas, it is time to leave Oita and return home to Singapore. It would be fitting to end the series about our travels in Japan with a post about the city that we called home for the past two years. Up till now, all posts written detailed our experiences in various parts of Japan and Oita Prefecture, but in reality we experienced Japan’s culture, food and people here in Oita City. From commuting to work and Japanese lessons to shopping for groceries and household items, the city of Oita was the place which we have the most memories and attachment to.

In thinking about what to write, I had to look through photo albums for pictures that we took in Oita. Unfortunately, there weren’t many because after the start of the COVID-19 epidemic, all large-scale gatherings were cancelled which meant we didn’t get a chance to see most of the celebrations and events that usually took place annually. Nevertheless, this is a snippet of Oita City that we experienced over the last two years.

Sights

Admittedly, Oita City is not a place with many famous attractions. There are some nice spots littered around the city that visitors can enjoy. The most notable of these in my opinion would be Takasakiyama. It’s a mountain situated between Oita and Beppu and the mountain itself is featured as the city’s mascot – known endearingly as Takamon. This mountain’s residents are the area’s main attraction. They run wild throughout the dense vegetation on the mountain and play at an area where visitors can see them near the foot. They get real close to you but are harmless unless provoked.

Next on the list of places is Heiwakoen or Heiwa Park. It means Peace Park, but it’s not as grand as Hiroshima’s or Nagasaki’s. It’s a great place to go during hanami because the sakura trees are nicely lined up along the canal. We went during that time, but it rained suddenly so we couldn’t see much. On the second occasion, we checked out other parts of the park like the Noh Theater and a Chinese-style gate and pavilion that symbolized Oita City’s relationship with her sister city – Wuhan, China (yes, that Wuhan).

This next place is a little hard to get to but worth a visit if you are in Oita in late April to early May. This is because it’s when wisterias bloom and it’s an amazing sight. It’s a shrine in the south of Oita called Sasamuta Shrine. It is a typical Shinto Shrine except for its garden which boasts a local secret. It has a large wisteria tree. A maze of trellises and wooden scaffolding allow the vines and strings of flowers to hang down from above the walkways. The overhangs drape over the heads of visitors like silky, lilac curtains swaying in the breeze provides a unique entrance to the shrine.

Food

Oita is famous for Toriten, chicken fried tempura-style. You will find that all throughout the restaurants in the city. The one place that I would recommend is called Kujuya, named after the Kuju Mountain Range where they source their ingredients from. We especially enjoy their unique salad, which gathers fresh ingredients from Oita. It comes free with all the set lunches! Their Toriten is the main recommendation and it is really juicy and succulent. If you go at night, the restaurant is transformed into a yakiniku place. Of the three times that we went there for dinner, we were not disappointed. Their beef is from Oita, called Bungo-ono Beef. It is a type of Wagyu and it tastes amazing.

The next mention is a ramen shop whose kanban (sign) just says “Oita Ramen”. Its full name is actually Oita Ramen Congratulations (it sounds better in Japanese – Oita Ramen Omedetai), and it is right next to Oita’s main train station. When I first saw the gaudy yellow sign bordered by Broadway-style lights, I said I would never eat here, it looked too touristy. I’m not sure why but we did end up trying the ramen there and we have not looked back.

I usually give an informal rating for ramen I try based on specific criteria. For this one:
Noodles: 10/10. Perfect thickness, perfect crunchiness/chewiness, tastes amazing.
Broth: 10/10. Perfect mix of creaminess, saltiness and umami. Make no mistake about it, if you eat this everyday, you will have a clogged artery in the next 10 years. But it’s just so unbelievably good that you wouldn’t care.
Meat: 10/10. They actually give you two different cuts of pork if you order the special. Both are delicious in their own way. You get the traditional chashu which is seasoned and braised to perfection, and you also get a rib cut where the bone is removed but the cartilage remains. This is the real kicker. It literally melts in your mouth and it tastes incredible.
Toppings: 8/10. Nothing special about the toppings so it doesn’t get a perfect score because the egg is just a hard-boiled egg (sorry but it should be a flavoured egg); And it doesn’t come with bamboo and black fungus.
Cost: 9/10. Priced at 790yen for the special (the most expensive), it’s really value for money for what you get. You also can ask for 1.5x noodles if you are hungry!

The next recommendation is Hasama House. Our Sensei brought us here on our last meal with him before we left 😥 It is a quaint little restaurant found in North Ozai, which is northeast of Oita Station . The restaurant sits at a corner of a collection of houses and looks like an unsuspecting residential home unless you went closer and noticed the menu and open/close sign. They offered two menus for lunch – a Western and a Japanese one. Both sets included an abundant salad that could rival Kujuya’s and we ended the meal with the apple tart that’s made in-house.

The last recommendation is a modern Japanese restaurant named Ginnan. This place is a go-to for locals who want to have business dinners and company celebrations. They serve Japanese cuisine with cooking techniques adapted from various other styles like Chinese and European. The courses are spread out over a 2-3hour period which creates ample time for conversations and sake between dishes. Their plating is exquisite, and food was absolutely delicious on both the occasions that we went. (Sorry but I lost the photos of the food. I only have one of the shop front).

SPORTS

One of the few major events that came to our city was the Rugby World Cup 2019. It was held just before the pandemic and would be one of the last large-scale events where large crowds could gather in Oita City for a long while. At that time, there was a great atmosphere throughout the city. Shops had rugby related goods, restaurants served rugby-themed menus and screens everywhere were showing live games and highlights. It was especially exciting whenever the Japanese team played. The city would erupt in cheers when the team scored and celebrations would continue if the Cherry Blossoms won.

As Oita City was one of the host cities, we got a chance to watch a live game between New Zealand and Canada. It took place at the largest stadium in Oita, Showa Denko Dome. People from all over had travelled to our city to watch the game and we entered a packed stadium, eagerly anticipating the start of the game. We were also treated to the traditional pre-match haka by the All Blacks. Unsurprisingly, they ousted Canada by a fair margin, but the match was fantastic nonetheless.

I love football so besides rugby we also went to watch Oita Trinita FC, Oita City’s football club. We went on two different occasions at two different venues. Showa Denko Dome is the team’s main stadium but it was used for Rugby World Cup matches so they played at a different venue. Oita Trinita is a mid-table team and their style of play wasn’t the most exciting, but the fans were passionate and the atmosphere was lively.

Final thoughts

We will definitely return to Oita in the future. Until then, we have these photos and memories to look back on. It has been a thoroughly enjoyable experience living and working in Oita City. It may not be as famous as Tokyo, Osaka or Hokkaido but it has its own charms. We end our journey with the view from our street. On a clear day, we can see the mountains to the west. I will miss this view.

Kokonoe

Just when we thought our travels were over, we managed to squeeze one last trip to an unvisited part of Oita Prefecture, to a region called Kokonoe. It was raining in the morning due to a typhoon and it threatened to ruin the day, but thankfully it subsided and we were treated to the spectacular views of the natural landscape that the region offered.

The first place we went to was called Kokonoe Yume Otsurihashi. This is the highest pedestrian suspension bridge in Japan. It costs 500yen for adults to traverse, but it is worth the price as you get a superb panoramic view of the valley below. It also touts colourful views as the seasons change so depending on the time of the year, you may get even more beautiful landscapes.

Next, we went to a place called Bebenko Farmhouse Restaurant. If you are in the area, this place is highly recommended. It serves local produce such as the nicely marbled Bungo-ono Beef from our very own prefecture. We had it in a yakinikudon (grilled meat with rice) and it was so delicious that we ordered an additional steak on the side. On top of that, you can sit outside where it overlooks the plains at the foot of the Kuju Mountain Range. The serene view is a perfect pairing with the hot tea and food that the restaurant serves. Also, there were some animals that the owners reared beside the main building (there was a curious llama which seemed a little out of place).

Most of the Kokonoe region is covered by the Aso-Kuju National Park, thus a trip to Kokonoe wouldn’t be complete without seeing the Kuju mountain range up close (the Aso portion is in Kumamoto and we visited it when we went to Kumamoto). Visitors can only reach the top of any of the peaks on foot so we didn’t make the climb. However, the area surrounding the mountain range was picturesque, so we managed to get a few great photos and views.

We don’t have any more days left in Oita so this marks the last region of Oita that we visit in our time here in Japan. I’ve written about Saiki, Beppu, Taketa, Nakatsu, Kitsuki, Kunisaki, Usa and now Kokonoe (and one more about Oita City coming soon). I would say we have plenty of recommendations for anyone wanting to visit Oita Prefecture and the island of Kyushu. We hope to return to the prefecture to checkout some of the places again in different seasons, and perhaps visit new ones.

Chūgoku (Part 2): Tottori & Shimane

In part 1 of our Chūgoku adventure, we visited Hiroshima and Okayama. Now we head north for part 2, to the 2 prefectures that lie on the shores of the Sea of Japan – Tottori and Shimane.

After a 2 hour drive, we arrived at our ryokan on the fringes of Tottori City. It was the perfect place to see the famous Tottori Sand Dunes. More on that later. Our first stop was the Sand Museum. We expected the museum to have some generic displays or perhaps some history to do with… sand… but we were pleasantly surprised to find that the museum actually holds world-renowned sand sculptures and their themes change every 3-4 years. The theme when we visited was Czechoslovakia.

The main hall of the museum was a massive space that was filled with numerous sand sculptures made by different artists. The sand sculptures were huge in size but intricate in details, and the teams that created these massive displays comprised of skilled sand sculptors from all over the world, including one from Singapore! As the crowning jewel of the exhibit, there was a replica model of Prague Castle with a waterfall at the far end of the main hall. It was awesome.

Right next to the museum were the Tottori Sand Dunes. This desert-looking landscape spans roughly 15km in length and 2.5 km in width and is also next to the sea. There weren’t any dedicated paths so visitors are free to roam wherever and however they wished. We started by following the footstep trails of others but soon ventured on our own way. From certain points, you weren’t able to see beyond the dunes which gave the feeling that you were actually in a vast desert. Then as you walk on further, there will be a few activities relating to the sand and the beach like sand boarding and paragliding.

We bid Tottori adieu and headed to Shimane. We stopped by Yuushien along our drive to Matsue (a city in Shimane). Yuushien is a garden that is well known for their beautiful peonies. I’m not much of a flowers guy, but this garden had amazing colours that no other garden in Japan had. The peonies came in various shades of red and it made the garden bloom with vibrancy. It was springtime which meant it was peak season and tickets were more expensive and it meant that hoards of visitors. Nevertheless, it was worth the visit as the experience was unique.

Izumo Taisha or Izumo Grand Shrine, is the most well-known places in Shimane and usually on the top of lists of must-see shrines in all of Japan. The shrine gains its importance because of the kami or god that is enshrined there. According to the creation myth of Japan, Okuninushi no Okami was the creator of Japan and ruled Izumo. Every year, Shinto’s deities gather here for a meeting and this is when the biggest festival of the shrine is celebrated.

Even though we went there on a gloomy, rainy day, but there were still many visitors to the shrine. The shrine complex is split into a few parts but the main area houses the tallest worship hall in Japan (24 meters). Visitors were not allowed near the main buildings but the area surrounding it had lots of other places to see. There was even a shopping street next to the shrine area.

Many travelers (before COVID) travel to Kyoto each year to see Fushimi Inari Shrine and her Thousand Torii Gates. Actually there are around 30,000 Inari Shrines in Japan (source: http://inari.jp/en/faq/). Taikodani Inari Shrine located in Tsuwano-cho, a small town on the periphery of the prefecture, is another one of the most popular and stunning Inari shrines in Japan. Before returning to Oita, we made a quick stop there to check it out.

A typical Inari Shrine is characterized by its vermillion, lacquered torii gates. The red colour symbolizes protection from evil. Visitors enter through these many gates that line the pathway leading up to the shrine. The beauty and natural splendour of the surrounding landscape was what made this place a worthwhile detour for us. Its location on the slope of the mountain meant that we could see the whole valley. It was also cooled by a gentle breeze which constantly flowed though the shrine complex.

That rounds up a pretty awesome trip in Chūgoku. We spent about a week travelling to the various cities and locations mentioned in the articles, but there were plenty of other things that I didn’t include, like all the food and shops we explored. Thus by the time we got home, we were exhausted but satisfied by the great experiences that we had on this trip. Till next time! Mata ne!

Chūgoku (Part 1): Hiroshima & Okayama

On this trip, we travelled around the Chūgoku region. Chūgoku translates to middle country but it’s situated in the west of Honshu, Japan’s main island. It consists of Hiroshima, Okayama, Shimane, Tottori and Yamaguchi. We hit all 5 prefectures but I’m writing this as a 2-part post as there were plenty of things to mention and many places that we visited.

The first stop on our trip was Hiroshima. Hiroshima is, unfortunately, most known for the tragic occurrence that happened in the city at the end of World War II. Many places around the city mention the dropping of the atomic bomb in their descriptions. Naturally ,we paid a visit to the Atomic Bomb Museum and Peace Park. The museum depicts a lot of the horrors of the aftermath of the atomic bomb blast and its imagery is more poignant and stark than the one in Nagasaki. The Peace Park, which is next to the museum holds many tributes and memorials to both the victims and survivors of this tragic event.

2021 marks the 76th anniversary of the dropping of the A-bomb, and there is no better memorial than the Atomic Bomb Dome across the river from the Peace Park. The Dome was actually the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial
Promotion Hall before the bomb hit. The fact that it was so close to the epicentre, yet wasn’t completely destroyed is a bit of a miracle. It stands as a reminder of the devastation of atomic weapons and the sufferings of wartime. It is also one of Japan’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

On a less somber note, if you do plan on visiting Hiroshima, I highly recommend visiting Miyajima. It’s an island south of Hiroshima City and takes about 1 hour by ferry to get there. We initially wanted to skip this because we read online that the shrine, which was a UNESCO World Heritage site and the island’s most famous attraction, was closed for renovation. We were glad we didn’t because even though the shrine was indeed obscured by scaffolding, there were other things on the island to make the trip worthwhile.

The island was already bustling with activity when we arrived in the late morning. We didn’t expect to see so many high schoolers but it must have been some sort of school excursion. Nevertheless, we were able to get a table at one of the restaurants and enjoy one the region’s most loved seafood – oysters. Shops sell them in a variety of ways but they are mainly served fried or fresh. It was oishii.

After lunch we headed to the temple area and caught a glimpse of the island’s famous torii gate. The gate is actually part of Itsukushima Jinja or Itsukushima Shine and it is built in the water. When the tide is high, the gate appears to be floating on the water’s surface. It was obscured by the construction work so we turned our attention instead to the shrine itself, which is also built on the water. The shrine retained its religious roots in its design with the red pillars and Shinto symbols but the passageways between buildings were boardwalks built above the beach. The foundations were completely covered by water in some parts of the shrine, and in others they were exposed as it was low tide.

Next, we drove into Okayama Prefecture. However, before going to Okayama City itself, we drove onto another ferry which took us to Naoshima. To clarify, Naoshima actually belongs to Kagawa Prefecture (we didn’t know that until after the trip), but we decided to put this in our plan as it was en route to Okayama City plus it was highly recommended. We were not disappointed.

Naoshima is known as Japan’s Art Island and it’s not hard to see why. Some who come to the island stay several nights just to see all the art installations and museums that the island has to offer. We were only stopping by for a few hours so we had to move quickly to see as many things as we could.

The most notable art pieces were the two pumpkins designed by Yayoi Kusama, one of Japan’s most famous contemporary artists. They are on different parts of the island but are easily accessible by car or the public buses that run exclusively on the island. There was a bit of walking as well to see the outdoor art pieces but it was a nice day and the island had some scenic spots so it was worth going on foot.

Another place that we went to was the Chichu Art Museum. This place is a MUST-SEE. We were not allowed to take any pictures inside the museum, but you can google it (…or not if you want to be surprised like us). It was more than a museum, it was an experience. I won’t say much about it here except that you should go early or be prepared to wait as the museum only allows a maximum number of visitors at a time.

In Okayama City itself, we visited Korakoen, one of the three Great Gardens of Japan. Of all the koens that we have paid visits to so far, this was the most worthwhile. It was 410yen, which is relatively cheap, and it was large with many plants and wide spaces to stroll through and admire the view. At certain locations, you could catch glimpses of Okayama Castle, which is where we went next.

There was nothing historically particular about Okayama Castle, but we decided to go in and have a look. It resides on a rather scenic part of the city and the surrounding areas were a pleasant place to take a slow walk.

We headed to Tottori and Shimane for part 2 of our trip to Chūgoku. But before leaving Okayama, we went in search of the statue of local legend and boy hero Momotaro and it shall be the parting gift for this post.

Kunisaki and Usa

Kunisaki and Usa are two cities located in Oita Prefecture, the former being the place where our local airport is situated. We had an opportunity to go to Kunisaki because our friends had asked if we could drop them off at the airport as they were returning to their home country :’-( . We agreed and in return, they covered the cost of the car rental, a pretty fair deal if you ask me. So after we dropped them off, we took a detour and visited some well-known sites that were a short drive from the airport.

We went to 2 places. The first place is called Futagoji and it is a well known temple in the region. We were a bit surprised by this place as it wasn’t a regular temple like we imagined. Firstly, the temple was a blend of Buddhist and Shinto religions. To explain this simply, Shinto was practiced in Japan before Buddhism arrived from China around the 6th century. Both have coexisted rather peacefully but Shinto was the official religion during the Meiji restoration period of Japan. So many shrines and temples around Japan contain elements of both religions. Modern Japanese also practice a mixture of religious rites in their lifetime.

The other reason this place was unique was because of the layout. Usually, temple complexes have about 1-3 levels. The lowest level is where you park your car and enter. If the temple was on a hillside or mountain, you would have to climb a few steps or a short staircase to see the main temple and other shrines. Futagoji however, is a large area within the mountain. There are a pair of twin deities that guard the entrance (the presence of these deities is also a bit unusual). Visitors would then head up a long flight of stairs to reach the ticket booth. After that you are free to explore the grounds littered with many statues, stone plaques, rock formations and temples. You can even hike to the top of the mountain via a trail, but we weren’t prepared for that. It was also beginning to get really hot.

The second place we visited is a more famous site – Usa Jingu or Usa Shrine. This place is dedicated to Hachiman, the spirit of Emperor Ojin and is the head of all Hachiman shrines in Japan. This site is also influenced by both Buddhist and Shinto religions, a common theme for temples in the region. The temple grounds were huge, but thankfully unlike Futagoji it was mostly flat so the walk was less tiring.

It was a hot summer’s day and we picked up some local summer produce before hitting the road. We spent about a total of 5 hours visiting both sites and it was a 2 hour drive back to Oita City. A relatively short trip compared to our other travels. Even though our prefecture wouldn’t naturally be at the top of traveller’s ‘must-see’ lists, the various cities in our prefecture all have something that makes them special – and we would say it’s worth the visit.

Shikoku

The closest neighbouring prefecture to our city is Ehime. Ehime isn’t on our island of Kyushu, it’s actually on another island, Shikoku. The only reason we haven’t travelled there was because the quickest way to get there would be by driving onto a ferry that would take us across. Usually that wouldn’t be an issue, however the websites and ticket reservation processes were all in Japanese. We would also have to travel to the outskirts of the city to board this ferry, so this meant that you had to know your way around. Having leveled up in our Japanese speaking (i.e. we can ask for directions), we were confident that going on this trip would be fine.

_{Ferry route from Saganoseki, Oita to Misaki, Ehime. Photo courtesy of GoogleMaps}

We also had to plan the itinerary. Again, usually this would not be a problem but Shikoku is the smallest of the four main islands of Japan, at just slightly more than 18000km². It doesn’t have the world renowned sites of Kyoto and Nara, or the natural beauty of Hokkaido. Despite this, there were recommended places to visit so we tried our best to fit as many into our tight schedule as possible, even though many were far away from the main cities and the island is pretty mountainous for its small size.

We arrived at Misaki Port in Ehime on a scorching hot afternoon in the middle of Japan’s summertime. It was around a 2 hour drive to Matsuyama, Ehime’s capital city and our first stop. Even in the car with the air-conditioning on, we still could feel the sun through the windows and when we got out, we immediately start sweating profusely. Those whose Olympic sport is an outdoor one must feel like they are on fire right now. Don’t need to warm up guys, you’d be ready to go as soon as you exit a shaded area.

In Matsuyama, we visited 2 attractions, Matsuyama Castle was the first. Matsuyama’s castle is one of the main attractions in the city and certainly a decent place to visit. However, it was really hot that morning(33° C) and I think the heat made the experience a little less ideal. Inside were exhibits and details about the history of the castle and at the top level, visitors got to see a 360° view of the city.

The second place we went to visit was Dōgo (道後). It was an area of Matsuyama which had a few notable landmarks such as the Dōgo onsen, which is the oldest onsen in Japan, dating back over 3,000 years! The façade of the buildings were undergoing renovation when we visited, but the hot spring was still in operation. The temperature outside was sweltering so we were never going to pay to dip in hot water (we went for ice cream instead). The other attraction in this place was the old Dōgo train station. It had an industrial age feel and had a parked train which I initially thought was a replica model. However, upon some research I realised this train actually still runs!

Subsequently, we drove another 1.5 hours to the next prefecture – Kagawa. We had already made a stop in this prefecture when we visited Naoshima but this was the first time on the mainland. I didn’t know this before, but when we searched for famous food in Kagawa, udon appeared. Kagawa is the largest producer of udon in Japan and the people here adore it. Hence we had fair amounts of udon on this leg of the trip.

In between udon meals, we went to check out some of the places Kagawa had to offer. The first stop we made was Kotohiki Park to see a giant coin made of sand called Zenigata Sunae. Okay, this is probably one of the few times I would recommend against visiting a place. Even if a place was overhyped or warned of a potential bad experience, there usually would be some other things to make it an attraction. This place, in my opinion, was a waste of time. Why, you ask? Firstly, you would not be able to see the entire giant formation if you didn’t have a drone because there was no vantage point. Second, there was nothing else in the park except for bug catchers, which were all kids running around with big nets. Lastly, it was difficult to find and difficult to get to. Oh and did I mention? It was HOT. TLDR: don’t stop here unless you want to see nothing.

_{Left: what we were promised. Right: what we saw}

We also went to a place touted for having the most beautiful sunsets in Japan, Chichibugahama. It means “Father and Mother’s beach” (not sure why).

Lastly, we went to Ritsurin Garden in Takamatsu, the capital city of Kagawa. On their website, it states that Ritsurin is “is the largest Cultural Property Garden in all of Japan” and the Michelin Guide rates this garden as 3 stars (I thought they only ranked food…?). It was a pleasant morning stroll but we left as soon as it became really hot.

Then, we headed for prefecture no.3 – Tokushima. This was the only prefecture that we didn’t stay a night in. We visited two sites during the day on our way to Kochi prefecture. They were the most unique places on our trip and certainly the most prominent in the prefecture. The first was Udatsu which was a street of Edo period houses and shops.

The second was a set of vine bridges in the Iya Valley… wait what? Ok, some context is needed. The Iya Valley is a large area at the heart of Shikoku’s mountain range. When we were there, we could tell that the main activities here were camping, hiking and river rafting as plenty of locals were engaged in those. The valley is flanked by steep slopes and the Iya river runs right through it. Before the advent of modern bridges, the inhabitants of the valley crossed this river via vine bridges. They are constantly maintained to ensure safety, but crossing them still seems rather precarious!

We also encountered a surprise while traversing the winding mountain roads. The village famous for its doll inhabitants is located in this valley. Dubbed ‘The scarecrow village’, Nagoro Village is a tiny settlement where life-sized dolls have outnumbered the human inhabitants. A bit bizarre and definitely creepy at night, we merely drove past and took a few photos. Read more here.

Rounding off the four prefectures was Kochi. We visited the castle, which was again a recommended spot. However, the streets surrounding the castle were bustling as well, which was a little different compared to other castles we visited in Japan. There is a market that runs only on Sunday which we didn’t manage to see, but there was a food market. The place reminded us of food centres in Singapore and Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. The specialty food for Kochi – seared Bonito sashimi.

Shikoku is not a place on everyone’s bucket list but it certainly has its own charm. A car is required if you want to visit but driving from city to city is very short compared to the other prefectures on bigger islands. Overall, I’m glad we made this trip despite the heat as there were places that existed only on the small island. When we took the ferry back across to Kyushu, we drove back home in no time at all. Going to Shikoku could even be a day trip if you started early enough. Maybe if there is a reason to, we would go again.

Temples of Nara

Nara is a place where you get a good glimpse into Japan before its capital was moved to Kyoto in 794AD. Buddhism was the main religion and a lot of architectural styles of modern Japan arose from that era. There are Seven Great Temples in Nara, Nanto Shichi Daiji, that capture this significance. During our trip there, we visited three: Horyuji, Todaiji and Kofukuji. Places close at around 5pm so it was tough to visit all the temples within the time we were there. My advice is not to miss out on the other attractions like Nara Park and the walking streets. I wrote a longer post about our trip here.

The first temple we visited was Horyuji. It is situated south-west of central Nara and is the furthest away from the centre. You have to take the train and walk, or drive like we did. Within this site laid the oldest wooden buildings in the world. They were built sometime during the Asuka Period (538AD-710AD). It must take a good amount of expert care to preserve these structures because the entrance fee to this site was the most expensive out of all the places of interest we visited (¥1500 for adults). However, you are able to see the structures from outside the paid area and there were plenty of other things to see around so we didn’t go in.

Aside from the western precinct where the old wooden buildings were, there was an eastern precinct that had the Yumedono (hall of visions), Gallery of Temple Treasures and Chuguji Temple. Chuguji is renowned for housing a ‘Smiling Buddha’, which stands out for its unique appearance. Its smile is often compared to the Egyptian Sphinx and the Mona Lisa. The actual statue was elsewhere when we visited so we only saw pictures like the one below.

The next temple we visited was Todaiji. It is conveniently situated in Nara Park so you could just walk there from anywhere in the park. It used to be the largest wooden building in the world until 1998 which is a testament to its massive size. Its main resident is none other than a giant bronze statue of Buddha, one of the largest in Japan. There are also other smaller deities and a temple shop inside the large building. Admission here was ¥600 and its well worth to enter. There were also no deer in the complex, although plenty were just outside the gate leading in.

The last temple we visited was Kofukuji. It was a short distance from Nara Park so we walked over from there. This was the family temple of the Fujiwara Clan, the most powerful aristocratic clan during much of the Nara and Heian Periods. The main buildings in this temple complex were the three Golden Halls, the two Pagodas and the two Round Halls. The grounds of the temple were free to enter but there were admission charges for the buildings. We didn’t go inside where some of the temple’s treasures were displayed, but we could get a good all-round view of the buildings from the outside. The lack of walls also mean that deer from the nearby park were free to roam the grounds.

Of the four remaining temples, only Yakushiji and Saidaiji remain intact while Daianji and Gangoji are only partially standing. The temples are not close to each other so anyone wanting to visit them all will have to do so on separate days. Broadly speaking, they can be separated into groups, those that are in and around Nara Park (Todaiji, Kofukuji, Gangoji) and those that require transport (Horyuji, Yakushiji, Saidaiji, Daianji). You can plan such a trip in this way to make the most efficient use of your time there.

Himeji, Nara, Kyoto, Yamaguchi

We visited some of Japan’s most famous tourist attractions at a time when overseas tourists weren’t allowed into the country. It made for great photo ops and a more relaxed travel experience. Our trip this time took us to Himeji, Nara, Yamaguchi and a quick impromptu stop at Kyoto. We had a rental car which made things a lot more convenient and we didn’t have to walk in the cold December wind as much. Our first stop was Himeji City.

Without a doubt the best castle in Japan, Himeji Castle stands out as one of the best places to visit if you are planning a trip here. There is so much to share about our trip to Himeji Castle and the adjacent garden that it deserves a standalone post which you can find here.

After leaving Himeji Castle we went to Mount Shosha, home to Engyoji Temple. This site was the filming location for The Last Samurai (yes the Tom Cruise one) because of its old-styled temples and structures. To get up the mountain, the easiest way was to take the ropeway, otherwise it would have been an hour hike up the mountain. After taking the ropeway, we had to walk about 10 minutes to the main area.

The Engyoji Temple site consists of a sparse collection of shines, temples and traditional structures. The main temple, mani-den, was most notable for being 27th on the 33 Kannon Temple pilgrimage. What makes the temple impressive is the way it was built. It sits on wooden foundations and has its main balcony protruding out of the rock cliff. It must have taken a great feat of engineering to build such a large structure sitting halfway out of an uneven slope back in the day. Additionally, without modern vehicles, the materials other than wood and stone must have been arduously transported as the the temple is located in a secluded area of forest.

The other prominent spot in the temple site was the square that had three buildings on its perimeter. These were used mainly for training and housing for Buddhist monks but now remain disused. In more recent times, these were the buildings used as settings for the movie. There is a circuit that goes around the temple site and is littered with other small shrines. It takes around half an hour to walk the circuit if you are fast, but if you wanted to have a closer look at the buildings, it would be best to plan an afternoon. It was a totally different vibe to Himeji Castle and brought us to a different time in Japanese history. The dense forest surrounding the area creates an atmosphere that you are one with nature. It also feels like the perfect place for calm meditation.

Then we went to Nara… oh Nara… if it wasn’t for your aggressive biting deer you would have rated much higher on my list of favourite cities. We were promised semi-wild but gentle, polite creatures that roamed freely and would bow to request to be fed senbei (toasted rice snack). Instead, what we got were hungry swarms of over-zealous Pokémon which appeared not only in grassy areas but wherever we went on the slightest possibility of a senbei. They were everywhere. Waiting outside shops, roaming the shrines, crossing the road and there were even two locking horns in the middle of the walking path towards Todaiji and hissing at passersby.

Of course Nara isn’t just about the deer and the park . There are the Seven Great Temples (nanto shichi daiji). We went to three of the seven and again I have dedicated a separate post about them here. There was also Naramachi, the old merchant district of Nara which currently retains an old world feel as you walk down its many streets and alleys. Finally, there was this:

Fastest mochi maker on record. The shop name is called Nakatanidou and we sort of stumbled upon it. We didn’t even know it was there when we walked by it the first time round. Luckily we backtracked when we started seeing a crowd gather. Then two guys who we had seen on Youtube appeared and started making the mochi. I managed to get a video of them in action but I suspect it was more for show than the real process. Nonetheless, we bought one to try. It was alright, but I’m not a mochi expert so I wouldn’t be able to tell an excellent mochi from an average one. We left Nara the following morning and headed to Kyoto.

Kyoto wasn’t part of the trip initially. We decided to make a stop there to see the Golden Pavilion and Kiyomizu-dera. Perhaps the most iconic of all attractions in Japan is the Golden Pavilion, Kinkakuji. The pavilion is not made of real gold, but had gold foil wrapped around its exterior that gives it its colour. Entry into the pavilion is not permitted so visitors can only view it from around the lake where it is situated. The Kiyomizu-dera is a temple site with multiple buildings. The most famous of them is the main temple that has a balcony protruding out of its main structure. It was a brief but breathtaking stopover and we left Kyoto after having lunch at a kaitenzushi restaurant.

The last prefecture on this trip was Yamaguchi. We only went to one place in Yamaguchi, the Motonosumi Inari Shrine. I’m pretty sure there was more to see in Yamaguchi (indeed there are other attractions that appear on a Google search), but by that time we had gone to some of the most famous places in not only Japan but the world, and other things paled in comparison. Nevertheless, the Motonosumi Shrine was this prefecture’s offering on the list of notable places to visit in Japan. The unique feature of the shrine was the line of 123 torii gates that line the path up to the shrine. It is situated on a cliff next to the sea which provided a breathtaking view out into the horizon.

From castles and gardens to shrines and temples, the sites we visited on this trip provided us with a big window into the rich history of Japan and its culture. There were definitely places we missed out on and food we didn’t get to try, but we got to see Japan without the tourists which was an absolute privilege. It probably won’t be so quiet the next time we visit, but we’d go back to those cities any day! (maybe not to feed the deer again though…)

White (Heron) Castle

Even though the appearance and layout of a Japanese style castle is starkly different from its European counterparts, their purpose remains the same – fortification against conventional attacks from invading armies. The Japanese Castle site generally consists of the main outer wall (honmaru) with guard towers (Yagura) and gates, secondary walls (ninomaru), tertiary walls (sannomaru), Castle Tower (tenshukaku) and palace (goten). You can find a description of these here.

If you are a fan of top-three-lists, the ‘Three Famous Castles’, sanmeijo, in Japan are Kumamoto Castle in Kumamoto, Nagoya Castle in Aichi and of course Himeji Castle in Hyogo. We visited the first of these in 2019. Unfortunately, due to the earthquake which struck Kyushu in 2016, the Kumamoto Castle was undergoing repairs and its exterior was wrapped with scaffolding. We have not been to the second, which leaves us with Himeji Castle – White Heron perched atop a hill about to take flight. This description was supposed to embody the image of the castle when viewed from afar. It didn’t look like that to me at first glance, but it sure was a pretty artistic way of describing the Tower.

We visited Himeji Castle in December 2020, at a time when Japan imposed travel restrictions to foreign travellers. This meant that the usually packed castle grounds was relatively quiet and queue-less. We arrived when the grounds first opened, but we didn’t head straight for the tenshukaku. Instead we followed a tip-off from the Internet that there was a garden next to the castle grounds which was best visited in the early morning. The Internet was not mistaken! The garden, koko-en in Japanese, was serene and provided a relaxing atmosphere for a morning stroll. The garden is separated into different sections, and each provide a different feel. You can also see Himeji Castle from parts of the garden. The garden entry is separate from the actual castle grounds but you can purchase a combined ticket that allows entry into both places.

The grounds of Himeji Castle were huge and even had a small zoo within the compound. Once we entered through the south entrance across sakuramon-bashi bridge, there was a large square separating visitors from the second inner wall. Events and large gatherings can be hosted here. Upon entry through the gate in the inner wall, you can either take a detour to see the west section of the wall, or go to the keep. We weren’t pressed for time so we went to see the former. The tour of the wall allowed visitors to understand how the defense of the castle works starting with the walls.

Then at last there was the tenshukaku. The epic tower unmistakable even amongst Japanese style castles. Its unblemished white structure capped with a bluish-grey roof hides impressive detail that blended seamlessly into the façade. Only up close can one really tell what those designs are. The castle also had a different design of roof skirting both sides from its front. It looked more like an elegant palace for the ruler of the country rather than a defense fortification. The main tower also had a smaller tower flanking its west side, acting like a sidekick character.

Before entering Himeji Castle, I’ve only ever been into European castles so naturally I was surprised to discover what the interior actually looks like. It looked nothing like the exterior. Himeji Castle has six levels with two sets of stairs and two main pillars. There are weapon racks and a small shrine (kamidana) but otherwise, it was largely wooden furnishings and route signs. Most designs were practical, various window sizes were meant for archers, small holes meant to eject rocks over invaders and the view on the top floor served as a great 360-degree lookout point.

Perhaps the castle was better enjoyed from the outside than on the inside. The large castle grounds allowed visitors to continue gazing at its majesty while visiting other attractions. Himeji City had lots of other places to visit like Mount Shosha, which I wrote about in this article. But even if you only planned to see Himeji Castle, a trip down would certainly be well worth it.

Hanami

Japan during Sakura (Cherry Blossoms) season is a magical place. Warmer temperatures and vibrant colours provide a feeling of rejuvenation after a cold and gloomy winter. Hanami is what people living here are really anticipating. Hanami literally means flower (hana) and to see (mi) and is a huge endeavor here in Japan. It is hard to be oblivious when Hanami season arrived, despite the lack of the usual festivities due to the virus. Barren trees turn bright pink and transform any mediocre view into a postcard-worthy scene. On top of that, people start to walk more slowly, often stopping mid-path to take pictures and enjoy the sights. Picnic mats start to appear and any patch of grass suddenly becomes a spot to sit and enjoy the excellent view.

It is easy for anyone experiencing spring here for the first time to mistake pink flowers blooming for Cherry Blossoms. You mean to say those pink flowers are not Cherry Blossoms? Those are… Plum Blossoms? Yes. They are also pink and bloom first. I can honestly say that the first time I saw a Plum Blossom, I mistook it for a Cherry Blossom and was promptly corrected for my faux pas. The Plum Blossom heralds the beginning of spring and is the opening act for the more famous and beloved Cherry Blossom.

Cherry Blossom (top) , Plum Blossom (centre), Peach Blossom (bottom)

We missed Hanami season last year so we were determined not to miss it again. Unfortunately, the elusive Cherry Blossom only blooms for at most two weeks a year. For most of us who are working, that translates to just two weekends to experience the beautiful scenery brushed with the pastel pink of the Cherry Blossoms. So at the first sign of blooming, we went around our neighborhood on bicycle to seek out good Hanami spots and to take pictures. We had also made plans to drive to Taketa for Hanami but it was predicted to rain over the rest of the weekend so that plan was cancelled. 残念ね!

The following week we went to Kitsuki, a town north of Oita City. We went on a Friday because yet again the forecast showed RAIN over the weekend! After a 40 minute train and a 10 minute bus ride, we arrived in Kitsuki Town. This quaint settlement at the mouth of the Yasaka River is home to Japan’s smallest castle and two former Samurai districts. We first trekked up towards the castle. The roads leading up to the castle were lined with dozens of sakura trees which provided a splendid entrance to the castle grounds and its surrounding areas. Even the parking lots were beautified by the trees. Incidentally, this was the first time I witnessed the light drizzle of sakura petals falling as the wind blew. The dance of the petals in the air is a one-of-a-kind scene in nature. It is probably the reason why the Cherry Blossom is the National Flower.

The castle overlooking the mouth of the Yasaka River is TINY. There is no other word for it. Yet it contains all the hallmarks of a typical Japanese castle: the rock foundation, the white structure with small rectangle openings, the greyish-blue roof tiles and the pair of fish-looking creatures (Shachihoko) on the very top of the roof.

We didn’t go into the castle but instead walked over to the neighboring area, the old samurai district. The former commercial and residential buildings now serve as a relic of the past. You can enter the attractions for free if you were wearing a traditional kimono. The town is also known as the “sandwich” castle town because of the commercial street that separates the two samurai districts. The area was generally deserted except for another group of Japanese sightseers so one can only imagine what this “sandwich” town was like during its heyday.

The conclusion of Hanami season is marked by little leaves sprouting alongside the blossoms, giving the tree a mix of green and pink colors. It’s still a sight to behold, but nothing compared to the elegance of fully pink sakura trees. For now the fleeting Cherry Blossom season is over and we only managed to see a few places around Oita during this time. Hopefully there will be bright sunshine next season and larger Hanami celebrations.