In keeping with our goal of visiting as many prefectures as possible, we planned for 2 during the long weekend. Additionally, this would be our first road trip in Japan 😀 So we left Oita midmorning and journeyed to Miyazaki.
No one told us how expensive tolls were in Japan! The roads were pretty well maintained of course, and the scenery was beautiful, but wow the tolls were pricey. After 3 hours of driving, we arrived in Miyazaki. We stayed in Aoshima, just south of Miyazaki City because it was cheaper. It turned out to be a good choice because Aoshima was peaceful, a relaxing change of pace compared to cities, parking was free and it had most of the sights to see around Miyazaki City. The Bed and Breakfast place wasn’t ready to check us in yet so we ventured out to eat and walk around.
We went first to eat at Iwami which served Kamaage, Udon or Soba noodles with their own local dipping sauce. After that, we walked to Aoshima Island. The island has a unique natural feature called the “Devil’s Washboard”, which is a rock formation created by erosion of the softer mudstone and leaving the harder sandstone behind. It looks like a washboard, but I think they need to change the name soon. Millennials won’t know what a washboard is… Also, there was a shrine (Of course there would be).
Later after we checked in, we drove to Miyazaki City Centre to visit the park and have dinner. The main city park is called Heiwadai Park. The most notable feature of the park is the large monument known as the Peace Tower which was built in 1940. It is quite ironic if you know your history. Its design mimics temples found in Southeast Asia, in places like Siem Reap or Jogjakarta (It looks better in real life, I’m sure there is a better photo online). That’s because it was made from stones originating from all over the region. I’m not sure why. The park is also littered with little terracotta figurines which were tributes to the deceased.
For dinner we went to the shop which invented Chicken Nanban, which is a Miyazaki speciality. Erm… it was ok. It’s like sweet and sour chicken with tartar sauce.
The next day, we were about to leave Miyazaki… Oh wait, what is this?
These by the way are not replicas, they are actual Moai statues brought all the way from the original island of Rapa Nui (Easter Island). But why are there Moai here? It seems a team of Japanese engineers and specialists were the only people ever allowed to remove Moai statues from Easter Island a few decades back and restore them here in Sun Messe Nichinan. So basically they brought some of these statues from the middle of nowhere where few people would find them, to the middle of nowhere where few people would find them. While it is difficult to get to, it is a must-see if you go to Miyazaki (driving is best). The park and the surrounding area is picturesque and serene, and this is the only place other than Easter Island that you can see Moai statues.
After Sun Messe Nichinan, we drove 10mins to the nearby Udo shrine. It’s a famous shrine situated in a cave by the cliffside. It feels like walking into the Dragon’s Den from Pokemon Gold and Silver. There is also a place where people try to throw pebbles onto a rock and hope it lands in a rope circle. It’s for good luck. We tried. At least it was only 100yen.
So we hit the road again, and travelled through some Inaka towns and countryside settlements on our way to Kumamoto. We stopped by at this oddly modern and European-styled Ramen shop in rural Nichinan for lunch. Quite tasty and affordable, if you can find it.
By the time we arrived in Kumamoto, it was evening and we decided to head to the city for dinner. There we stumbled upon this particular restaurant. Once in a while, some strange dish comes along and it may seem a bit gross but people say it’s a “LOCAL SPECIALTY’ so you have to swallow it.
Here I present: Basashi, or in English, Horse Sashimi. If you thought that eating horse meat is inappropriate enough, this is eaten raw. Also, if you look at the picture again, there is a plate above the Basashi. That, friends, is Karairenkon or spicy lotus root. It’s deep fried lotus root smothered with mustard. Despite what I said about “local specialties”, I DO NOT recommend this. Imagine eating your hotdog with really spicy mustard. Then take away the hotdog and eat the mustard. That’s what Karairenkon tastes like.
The next day we drove to the city again to go to the main attractions. Kumamoto Castle is considered one of three premier castles in Japan. The other two are Himeji Castle and Matsumoto Castle. Unfortunately, because of the earthquake in 2016, Kumamoto Castle is closed for reconstruction. This was the closest we could get to it.
Fortunately, there were other places of interest in the area such as the market quarter .
and gardens (Suizenji Joju-en)
Overall, Kumamoto City was really lively with more residents than Oita City, but the pace of life there is still relaxed and we enjoyed walking around the city.
Before returning to Oita, we made one last stop at Mount Aso, the most active volcano in Japan. Yes, as you can see from the picture it is currently giving off smoke, which means the warning level is at 2 out of 5 and we can’t stand next to it. However, there was a museum and the whole area surrounding the volcano was lush and scenic. Definitely worth a trip up.
We are back in Oita of course and we are left with 2 more prefectures in Kyushu – Saga, and Kagoshima. We should be doing that soon, perhaps after the New Year when there aren’t so many tourists 😀
Mundivagant spirits 