Temples of Nara

Nara is a place where you get a good glimpse into Japan before its capital was moved to Kyoto in 794AD. Buddhism was the main religion and a lot of architectural styles of modern Japan arose from that era. There are Seven Great Temples in Nara, Nanto Shichi Daiji, that capture this significance. During our trip there, we visited three: Horyuji, Todaiji and Kofukuji. Places close at around 5pm so it was tough to visit all the temples within the time we were there. My advice is not to miss out on the other attractions like Nara Park and the walking streets. I wrote a longer post about our trip here.

The first temple we visited was Horyuji. It is situated south-west of central Nara and is the furthest away from the centre. You have to take the train and walk, or drive like we did. Within this site laid the oldest wooden buildings in the world. They were built sometime during the Asuka Period (538AD-710AD). It must take a good amount of expert care to preserve these structures because the entrance fee to this site was the most expensive out of all the places of interest we visited (¥1500 for adults). However, you are able to see the structures from outside the paid area and there were plenty of other things to see around so we didn’t go in.

Aside from the western precinct where the old wooden buildings were, there was an eastern precinct that had the Yumedono (hall of visions), Gallery of Temple Treasures and Chuguji Temple. Chuguji is renowned for housing a ‘Smiling Buddha’, which stands out for its unique appearance. Its smile is often compared to the Egyptian Sphinx and the Mona Lisa. The actual statue was elsewhere when we visited so we only saw pictures like the one below.

The next temple we visited was Todaiji. It is conveniently situated in Nara Park so you could just walk there from anywhere in the park. It used to be the largest wooden building in the world until 1998 which is a testament to its massive size. Its main resident is none other than a giant bronze statue of Buddha, one of the largest in Japan. There are also other smaller deities and a temple shop inside the large building. Admission here was ¥600 and its well worth to enter. There were also no deer in the complex, although plenty were just outside the gate leading in.

The last temple we visited was Kofukuji. It was a short distance from Nara Park so we walked over from there. This was the family temple of the Fujiwara Clan, the most powerful aristocratic clan during much of the Nara and Heian Periods. The main buildings in this temple complex were the three Golden Halls, the two Pagodas and the two Round Halls. The grounds of the temple were free to enter but there were admission charges for the buildings. We didn’t go inside where some of the temple’s treasures were displayed, but we could get a good all-round view of the buildings from the outside. The lack of walls also mean that deer from the nearby park were free to roam the grounds.

Of the four remaining temples, only Yakushiji and Saidaiji remain intact while Daianji and Gangoji are only partially standing. The temples are not close to each other so anyone wanting to visit them all will have to do so on separate days. Broadly speaking, they can be separated into groups, those that are in and around Nara Park (Todaiji, Kofukuji, Gangoji) and those that require transport (Horyuji, Yakushiji, Saidaiji, Daianji). You can plan such a trip in this way to make the most efficient use of your time there.

Himeji, Nara, Kyoto, Yamaguchi

We visited some of Japan’s most famous tourist attractions at a time when overseas tourists weren’t allowed into the country. It made for great photo ops and a more relaxed travel experience. Our trip this time took us to Himeji, Nara, Yamaguchi and a quick impromptu stop at Kyoto. We had a rental car which made things a lot more convenient and we didn’t have to walk in the cold December wind as much. Our first stop was Himeji City.

Without a doubt the best castle in Japan, Himeji Castle stands out as one of the best places to visit if you are planning a trip here. There is so much to share about our trip to Himeji Castle and the adjacent garden that it deserves a standalone post which you can find here.

After leaving Himeji Castle we went to Mount Shosha, home to Engyoji Temple. This site was the filming location for The Last Samurai (yes the Tom Cruise one) because of its old-styled temples and structures. To get up the mountain, the easiest way was to take the ropeway, otherwise it would have been an hour hike up the mountain. After taking the ropeway, we had to walk about 10 minutes to the main area.

The Engyoji Temple site consists of a sparse collection of shines, temples and traditional structures. The main temple, mani-den, was most notable for being 27th on the 33 Kannon Temple pilgrimage. What makes the temple impressive is the way it was built. It sits on wooden foundations and has its main balcony protruding out of the rock cliff. It must have taken a great feat of engineering to build such a large structure sitting halfway out of an uneven slope back in the day. Additionally, without modern vehicles, the materials other than wood and stone must have been arduously transported as the the temple is located in a secluded area of forest.

The other prominent spot in the temple site was the square that had three buildings on its perimeter. These were used mainly for training and housing for Buddhist monks but now remain disused. In more recent times, these were the buildings used as settings for the movie. There is a circuit that goes around the temple site and is littered with other small shrines. It takes around half an hour to walk the circuit if you are fast, but if you wanted to have a closer look at the buildings, it would be best to plan an afternoon. It was a totally different vibe to Himeji Castle and brought us to a different time in Japanese history. The dense forest surrounding the area creates an atmosphere that you are one with nature. It also feels like the perfect place for calm meditation.

Then we went to Nara… oh Nara… if it wasn’t for your aggressive biting deer you would have rated much higher on my list of favourite cities. We were promised semi-wild but gentle, polite creatures that roamed freely and would bow to request to be fed senbei (toasted rice snack). Instead, what we got were hungry swarms of over-zealous Pokémon which appeared not only in grassy areas but wherever we went on the slightest possibility of a senbei. They were everywhere. Waiting outside shops, roaming the shrines, crossing the road and there were even two locking horns in the middle of the walking path towards Todaiji and hissing at passersby.

Of course Nara isn’t just about the deer and the park . There are the Seven Great Temples (nanto shichi daiji). We went to three of the seven and again I have dedicated a separate post about them here. There was also Naramachi, the old merchant district of Nara which currently retains an old world feel as you walk down its many streets and alleys. Finally, there was this:

Fastest mochi maker on record. The shop name is called Nakatanidou and we sort of stumbled upon it. We didn’t even know it was there when we walked by it the first time round. Luckily we backtracked when we started seeing a crowd gather. Then two guys who we had seen on Youtube appeared and started making the mochi. I managed to get a video of them in action but I suspect it was more for show than the real process. Nonetheless, we bought one to try. It was alright, but I’m not a mochi expert so I wouldn’t be able to tell an excellent mochi from an average one. We left Nara the following morning and headed to Kyoto.

Kyoto wasn’t part of the trip initially. We decided to make a stop there to see the Golden Pavilion and Kiyomizu-dera. Perhaps the most iconic of all attractions in Japan is the Golden Pavilion, Kinkakuji. The pavilion is not made of real gold, but had gold foil wrapped around its exterior that gives it its colour. Entry into the pavilion is not permitted so visitors can only view it from around the lake where it is situated. The Kiyomizu-dera is a temple site with multiple buildings. The most famous of them is the main temple that has a balcony protruding out of its main structure. It was a brief but breathtaking stopover and we left Kyoto after having lunch at a kaitenzushi restaurant.

The last prefecture on this trip was Yamaguchi. We only went to one place in Yamaguchi, the Motonosumi Inari Shrine. I’m pretty sure there was more to see in Yamaguchi (indeed there are other attractions that appear on a Google search), but by that time we had gone to some of the most famous places in not only Japan but the world, and other things paled in comparison. Nevertheless, the Motonosumi Shrine was this prefecture’s offering on the list of notable places to visit in Japan. The unique feature of the shrine was the line of 123 torii gates that line the path up to the shrine. It is situated on a cliff next to the sea which provided a breathtaking view out into the horizon.

From castles and gardens to shrines and temples, the sites we visited on this trip provided us with a big window into the rich history of Japan and its culture. There were definitely places we missed out on and food we didn’t get to try, but we got to see Japan without the tourists which was an absolute privilege. It probably won’t be so quiet the next time we visit, but we’d go back to those cities any day! (maybe not to feed the deer again though…)

White (Heron) Castle

Even though the appearance and layout of a Japanese style castle is starkly different from its European counterparts, their purpose remains the same – fortification against conventional attacks from invading armies. The Japanese Castle site generally consists of the main outer wall (honmaru) with guard towers (Yagura) and gates, secondary walls (ninomaru), tertiary walls (sannomaru), Castle Tower (tenshukaku) and palace (goten). You can find a description of these here.

If you are a fan of top-three-lists, the ‘Three Famous Castles’, sanmeijo, in Japan are Kumamoto Castle in Kumamoto, Nagoya Castle in Aichi and of course Himeji Castle in Hyogo. We visited the first of these in 2019. Unfortunately, due to the earthquake which struck Kyushu in 2016, the Kumamoto Castle was undergoing repairs and its exterior was wrapped with scaffolding. We have not been to the second, which leaves us with Himeji Castle – White Heron perched atop a hill about to take flight. This description was supposed to embody the image of the castle when viewed from afar. It didn’t look like that to me at first glance, but it sure was a pretty artistic way of describing the Tower.

We visited Himeji Castle in December 2020, at a time when Japan imposed travel restrictions to foreign travellers. This meant that the usually packed castle grounds was relatively quiet and queue-less. We arrived when the grounds first opened, but we didn’t head straight for the tenshukaku. Instead we followed a tip-off from the Internet that there was a garden next to the castle grounds which was best visited in the early morning. The Internet was not mistaken! The garden, koko-en in Japanese, was serene and provided a relaxing atmosphere for a morning stroll. The garden is separated into different sections, and each provide a different feel. You can also see Himeji Castle from parts of the garden. The garden entry is separate from the actual castle grounds but you can purchase a combined ticket that allows entry into both places.

The grounds of Himeji Castle were huge and even had a small zoo within the compound. Once we entered through the south entrance across sakuramon-bashi bridge, there was a large square separating visitors from the second inner wall. Events and large gatherings can be hosted here. Upon entry through the gate in the inner wall, you can either take a detour to see the west section of the wall, or go to the keep. We weren’t pressed for time so we went to see the former. The tour of the wall allowed visitors to understand how the defense of the castle works starting with the walls.

Then at last there was the tenshukaku. The epic tower unmistakable even amongst Japanese style castles. Its unblemished white structure capped with a bluish-grey roof hides impressive detail that blended seamlessly into the façade. Only up close can one really tell what those designs are. The castle also had a different design of roof skirting both sides from its front. It looked more like an elegant palace for the ruler of the country rather than a defense fortification. The main tower also had a smaller tower flanking its west side, acting like a sidekick character.

Before entering Himeji Castle, I’ve only ever been into European castles so naturally I was surprised to discover what the interior actually looks like. It looked nothing like the exterior. Himeji Castle has six levels with two sets of stairs and two main pillars. There are weapon racks and a small shrine (kamidana) but otherwise, it was largely wooden furnishings and route signs. Most designs were practical, various window sizes were meant for archers, small holes meant to eject rocks over invaders and the view on the top floor served as a great 360-degree lookout point.

Perhaps the castle was better enjoyed from the outside than on the inside. The large castle grounds allowed visitors to continue gazing at its majesty while visiting other attractions. Himeji City had lots of other places to visit like Mount Shosha, which I wrote about in this article. But even if you only planned to see Himeji Castle, a trip down would certainly be well worth it.

Hanami

Japan during Sakura (Cherry Blossoms) season is a magical place. Warmer temperatures and vibrant colours provide a feeling of rejuvenation after a cold and gloomy winter. Hanami is what people living here are really anticipating. Hanami literally means flower (hana) and to see (mi) and is a huge endeavor here in Japan. It is hard to be oblivious when Hanami season arrived, despite the lack of the usual festivities due to the virus. Barren trees turn bright pink and transform any mediocre view into a postcard-worthy scene. On top of that, people start to walk more slowly, often stopping mid-path to take pictures and enjoy the sights. Picnic mats start to appear and any patch of grass suddenly becomes a spot to sit and enjoy the excellent view.

It is easy for anyone experiencing spring here for the first time to mistake pink flowers blooming for Cherry Blossoms. You mean to say those pink flowers are not Cherry Blossoms? Those are… Plum Blossoms? Yes. They are also pink and bloom first. I can honestly say that the first time I saw a Plum Blossom, I mistook it for a Cherry Blossom and was promptly corrected for my faux pas. The Plum Blossom heralds the beginning of spring and is the opening act for the more famous and beloved Cherry Blossom.

Cherry Blossom (top) , Plum Blossom (centre), Peach Blossom (bottom)

We missed Hanami season last year so we were determined not to miss it again. Unfortunately, the elusive Cherry Blossom only blooms for at most two weeks a year. For most of us who are working, that translates to just two weekends to experience the beautiful scenery brushed with the pastel pink of the Cherry Blossoms. So at the first sign of blooming, we went around our neighborhood on bicycle to seek out good Hanami spots and to take pictures. We had also made plans to drive to Taketa for Hanami but it was predicted to rain over the rest of the weekend so that plan was cancelled. 残念ね!

The following week we went to Kitsuki, a town north of Oita City. We went on a Friday because yet again the forecast showed RAIN over the weekend! After a 40 minute train and a 10 minute bus ride, we arrived in Kitsuki Town. This quaint settlement at the mouth of the Yasaka River is home to Japan’s smallest castle and two former Samurai districts. We first trekked up towards the castle. The roads leading up to the castle were lined with dozens of sakura trees which provided a splendid entrance to the castle grounds and its surrounding areas. Even the parking lots were beautified by the trees. Incidentally, this was the first time I witnessed the light drizzle of sakura petals falling as the wind blew. The dance of the petals in the air is a one-of-a-kind scene in nature. It is probably the reason why the Cherry Blossom is the National Flower.

The castle overlooking the mouth of the Yasaka River is TINY. There is no other word for it. Yet it contains all the hallmarks of a typical Japanese castle: the rock foundation, the white structure with small rectangle openings, the greyish-blue roof tiles and the pair of fish-looking creatures (Shachihoko) on the very top of the roof.

We didn’t go into the castle but instead walked over to the neighboring area, the old samurai district. The former commercial and residential buildings now serve as a relic of the past. You can enter the attractions for free if you were wearing a traditional kimono. The town is also known as the “sandwich” castle town because of the commercial street that separates the two samurai districts. The area was generally deserted except for another group of Japanese sightseers so one can only imagine what this “sandwich” town was like during its heyday.

The conclusion of Hanami season is marked by little leaves sprouting alongside the blossoms, giving the tree a mix of green and pink colors. It’s still a sight to behold, but nothing compared to the elegance of fully pink sakura trees. For now the fleeting Cherry Blossom season is over and we only managed to see a few places around Oita during this time. Hopefully there will be bright sunshine next season and larger Hanami celebrations.